Monday, February 20, 2017

Exploring Otavalo And Its Lagunas


For anyone visiting Quito Ecuador one place that you must not miss is Otavalo located about 35 miles north of Quito.  Otavalo is an incredible town where every Saturday they have a large artisan market that fills the streets and plazas with vendors selling ponchos, blankets, jewelry, wooden decorations, grains, fruits and so on.  In addition to the incredible items you can find in the market it is the people themselves that make it what it is.  Many wear traditional clothes with women wearing traditional white embroidered blouses, dark skirts and different colored shawls whereas the men may be seen with white pants, braided hair, dark colored ponchos and felt hats.  




Three fellow travelers and I started our weekend Otavalo adventure at the Hostal Otavalo Inn located inside the city.  It's the only hostel I've ever stayed at where they actually cook breakfast for you in the morning consisting of eggs, bread from the local bakery, fresh juice, and coffee or hot chocolate.  All this plus wifi, comfortable beds and friendly staff at a grand total of $12/night.  




We decided that for the first day we would explore Lago Cuicocha, a lake found west of the Otavalo formed by rivers flowing into the crater of an old inactive volcano.  To get there we took our 35 cent bus ride to Quirago and then contracted a truck to carry us up to the park for $5.  The hike around Lago Cuicocha truly is amazing.  At a total distance of 8 miles round trip you are never without an incredible view.  All around Lago Cuicocha are breathtaking views of the Andes with multiple peaks over 15,000, and on the other side of the trail is the immense crater lake with two islands formed from a slightly younger inactive volcano.  However for me one of the greatest views on the hike is Volcan Cotacachi which is just north of the lake.  With a summit at 16,220 surrounded by rocky spires and often blanketed in clouds it may be one of the more daunting peaks I've seen with my own eyes.  After a little research I discovered that most treks stop before the final couple hundred feet to the summit due to the technical skill required.




For as much as I enjoyed Lago Cuicocha the real highlight of our Otavalo weekend for me was Laguna Mojanda.  Where Lago Cuicocha is easily accessible with many amenities close by, Laguna Mojanda is remote and you must plan accordingly.  From Otavalo you can contract yet another truck that will take you up to the Laguna.  Instead of paved roads you get a thirty minute bumpy ride in the back of a truck up stone roads.  As you ascent higher and higher into the Andes you will be surrounded by incredible landscapes with farms creeping up steep mountainous inclines, cows that must been part mountain goat to navigate the precarious terrain, and dense vegetation.  Laguna Mojanda is the result of two inactive stratovolcanos and just like Lago Cuicocha it is the fed by rain and rivers to a volcano crater with no outlet. 




There are a few things that make Laguna Mojanda so remarkable for me.  First, the landscape.  High altitude grasslands surrounded by rocky cliffs and rolling hills with the laguna in the middle.  Next, the remoteness and seclusion.  You can hike and explore and sometimes feel like you're the only ones there.  A sharp contrast to life living in Chicago.  Last, the weather. Even though at high altitudes the weather can change in an instant, going from blue skies to heavy rain, it also leads to ever changing scenic landscapes and colors.  Options for adventure in the area include hiking around the perimeter of the laguna, venturing to the smaller laguna which is towered over by steep jagged cliffs, or attempt for the summit of Fuya Fuya with a summit of just under 14,000 ft.  While there we also saw a few others camping beside the coast of the laguna a few doing motocross.  Finally if you're feeling adventurous I definitely recommend a dive into the lake. Cold cold mountain goodness.




Whether you are looking for culture, food, or high adventure all can be found in Otavalo and its surrounding lands.  Fortunately I will be able to explore this remarkable place a second time once I am joined by my friends from Chicago and girlfriend Daisy who is currently solo adventuring across all of Europe.   Until then we'll see where my adventures take me next.








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